No shorts yet

because it's not summer, and the last few days have been windy and almost cold.

And I have discovered that parking within 20 metres of the high tide mark when the wind is also coming in from the sea makes for a very noisy night!

See how close we are and the tide isn't right in yet ...

But once again I am ahead of myself ...

The area we are exploring now, the East Coast, is quite sparsely populated - and when I tell you that NZ has the population of Birmingham living in it and is the same size as mainland Britain, you will know that means a very small number of people per square kilometre and slightly more per square mile.

However the East Coast appears, while driving through it to have a smaller population than almost any area of NZ I've ever been to. And given the terrain, the small population is not surprising. David and I often mentioned Clare, our intrepid cycling friend, who last year cycled the road we are traversing, being overtaken by logging trucks (hundreds) climbing and descending very steep and winding hills. When I had to get down to second gear at times, the thoughts would be expressed:

• how the hell did Clare get up this?
• mmm, a good one for Clare, and
• she told me she'd get off her bike and stand on the road shoulder when she heard logging trucks coming - she must have been on and off constantly on any week day!

After we left Mahia, we headed for Tolaga Bay, an amazing place with a wharf that is 633 metres long. It was restored some years ago, as it was seen to be significant for both Maori and pakeha communities, and it is bound up significantly in the history of the area. Getting in and out of this region would have been a long, arduous journey, so coastal shipping was prevalent - that too, was not without risk. This coastline is quite inhospitable with jutting out cliffs shaped by the seas and the wind, with bays that look lovely, but have vicious reefs that show from mid low tide to mid high tide.
(There is a boat ramp here in Tokomaru Bay near the pub - in my uninformed opinion, it is a triumph of optimism over reality - when we walked along the beach yesterday, there were reefs everywhere - how do the boats get out and back in? They would need to not have very deep Vs, that is for sure, and timing would be everything ...)

We parked up at Blue Waters, a Gisborne District Council camping area. The small fee ($35 for up to 9 nights' camping) that we paid for the permit at GDC is a boon, AND they give you maps, a pamphlet, and a number of large paper rubbish bags. They have really thought through the freedom camping thing here - all the camps appear to have toilets, and an above ground, freestanding (but chained to a building structure - sensible because it is amazing what people will nick) septic tank for emptying toilet cassettes into.

Where we parked in the expansive two level area was right next to the Surf Life Saving Club, because that had the best view of the sea and coast. Just after 6pm a car drove up containing a couple who had come to do some coaching of a dance team who were entered in a competition but hadn't yet perfected their routine or practised much. Practice was meant to start at 6pm, the tutors were late, but no one else showed till about 6.30. Practice wasn't long (all cars were gone by 8.30pm) but in the meantime one young man was practising outside with his taiaha** - he looked very competent to my untrained eye.

[**A taiaha is a traditional weapon of the Māori of New Zealand; a close-quarters staff weapon made from either wood or whalebone, and used for short, sharp strikes or stabbing thrusts with efficient footwork on the part of the wielder. Taiaha are usually between 5 to 6 feet in length. Wikipedia]

In the morning, we drove back along the bay to the wharf - had a long blowy walk along its 633 metres. David was under strict instructions NOT to approach the edge at the end where there were no guard rails - he may have better sight now, but I still don't trust him not to misstep. The wind was blowing strongly from the shore and the tide was running out - if he'd fallen in he'd have been halfway to South America in a jiffy!

Craggy coastline part of the way along the wharf

About 580 metres from the beach. Coastal ships used to tie up on each side.  In between the diverging railway lines for moving cargo to and from the ships, there used to be a wooden hut which had the points for switching the tracks.

Looking out to sea - next stop South America's west coast. I was wearing a t-shirt, a merino jersey and my lined coat, jeans and SANDALS! I needed a beanie to keep my ears warm but as this is a summer holiday, I didn't bring one, DOH!

Looking back to the beach. The CROW is parked parallel to the beach (incorrectly) and two other motorhome drivers were better behaved and parked at right angles using the official parking spots. We arrived much earlier than them and there was no one else there so there was plenty of room, and we didn't jut out - that's my excuse anyway.

Those cliffs have been effectively carved by wind and sea.

Looking back to the beach. No, the cliffs aren't the beach but they do bookend it most effectively.

The carving at the entrance to the wharf.

I was feeling poorly (I think I am doomed to get UTIs on holiday) so I made an appointment at Te Puia Springs Hospital and medical centre to see a doctor; D-Mannose and cranberry not having proved efficacious in this instance. We had planned to stay overnight at Tokomaru Bay, and Te Puia Springs is about 9kms further on - not a big distance to travel 3 times - especially as we are not Clare on a bike ... So we checked out Tokomaru Bay on our way, and had their famous fish and chips - yes, they are very very good. I am not a fan of fish, but this hoki was lovely and the chips were wonderful - all I really needed but didn't have, was a couple of slices of white bread slathered with butter to make a chip butty. But no, not happening and Vogels bread for a chip butty doesn't quite cut it, dammit!

The doctor in Te Puia Springs was efficient and I came away with a short course of antibiotics that already seem to be making a difference.

So back to Tokomaru Bay we came and found a spot to park where the sea is 20m away from the motorhome at high tide. (OK, now I am back to the second statement that opens this post. I remind you of this so you know I am keeping an eye on it. I am not like Billy Connolly though who could start a story, hive off in five different directions and then come back to the original - most often, I forget what I started off with ...) We then did the aforementioned walk, and there is definitely something health-giving about getting out in the fresh air even if it is moving at 20mph. Is it positive ions or something? Please tell me.

I took this photo from the beach beside the sea wall. These trees with their silvery leaves are ubiquitous along this coast and they are beautiful - light and feathery and change colour when the leaves turn over in the breeze.

Seaweed on the sand. Not at all the same but it reminded me of the Still Life on the Water photo that I took before we left Sawley back in September.

David's laundry had been soaking and being jostled in the bucket as we travelled yesterday, so he had to rinse and wring it out and get it hung out to dry. I do my own by hand when we are away (except for when we stay with people who have a washing machine, thanks, Dee and Willie), so I think it's only fair that he does his. I know he thinks it's fair, but that doesn't stop him putting it off in the hope that I will get frustrated and do it for him. Not falling for that trick, mate! I did give his socks and underpants an additional wringing out because for some reason he'd used the strength required to squeeze a tea-dunked biscuit and there was still heaps of water to be excluded so things would dry sometime before December comes round.

As we'd had avocado on toast for breakfast, fish and chips for lunch, we had breakfast for dinner: stewed tamarillos, yoghurt and muesli. And no wine, because I'm on antibiotics (just letting you know in case you've not been paying attention 😜)

And I learned from David this morning that:

• the All Blacks won the game against Wales (David watched on his phone through some techie trickery he sorted, given there is no TV repeater station anywhere near this area - everyone has satellite dishes); and
• Kirsty rang and said she's coming to NZ for a weekend in February and would like to do a road trip with us to see Murray and Dee. 

And scoping a plechinette trip in The Netherlands with Ann and Salvi next boating season is underway. User requirements will be gathered in a trip that Ann suggested they should make to visit us in Waikanae. Yay!! Cost, quality and timing (duration and dates) will be discussed as well as where to go.

So today we will drive back past Te Puia Springs and head for Te Araroa which is where the most eastern state highway in NZ goes through. We have booked a spot at the Morepork's Rest, a Charges Apply campsite where we can refill with water and have showers. David will also be able to watch the RWC Final - I would like to, but I may not be able to stay awake, surprise surprise!